Do not let the simplicity of this recipe fool you. Roasted rice powder khao khua is one of the most important and most overlooked ingredients in Thai cooking. Made from nothing more than raw sticky rice toasted in a dry pan until golden and nutty, then ground to a coarse powder, it is the secret ingredient that gives Larb, Nam Tok, and many Isaan dishes their distinctive texture, subtle nuttiness, and that gentle thickening quality that makes the dressing cling to every piece of meat and herb. Once you make it you will want a jar of it on your counter at all times.
Start the dry toast: Place the raw dry sticky rice in a heavy skillet or wok over medium to medium low heat. Do not add any oil, this is a completely dry toast. Spread the rice in an even layer across the bottom of the pan.
Toast until deep golden, be patient:Stir the rice constantly and patiently, do not walk away from this pan. After about 3 to 4 minutes the rice will begin to turn opaque and smell faintly nutty. Keep going. After 8 to 10 minutes the grains should be a deep, even golden brown, the color of pale caramel, and your kitchen should smell extraordinarily good. Like toasted popcorn crossed with something warm and nutty and deeply satisfying. Remove from heat immediately and transfer to a plate to cool. Left in the hot pan it will continue cooking and can burn.
Cool completely then grind: Once completely cool, this is important, hot rice will turn to paste in the grinder rather than powder, transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Grind to a coarse, sandy powder with visible texture. Pulse in short bursts if using a spice grinder rather than running it continuously. Taste a pinch, it should be nutty, slightly smoky, and deeply fragrant.
Store and use: Transfer to a clean airtight glass jar and label it with the date. Store at room temperature away from direct heat or sunlight. Use within 4 weeks for the best flavor, though in most kitchens a jar of khao khua never lasts that long.
Notes
Glutinous sticky rice is the traditional and correct choice for khao khua. It has a starchier, more fragrant quality than regular jasmine rice when toasted and produces a powder with the right texture and flavor. Regular jasmine rice can be used in a pinch and works reasonably well, but if you are making the effort, use the right rice.
Low and slow is the only way. This is not a high-heat recipe. Toast the rice over medium to medium-low heat, stirring constantly and patiently. Rushing it over high heat will brown the outside while leaving the inside raw and starchy, the powder will taste burnt rather than nutty. You are looking for a deep, even golden color all the way through each grain, which takes a full 8 to 10 minutes of gentle toasting. The smell is your guide, when your kitchen smells like toasted popcorn and warm nuts, you are almost there.
How coarse should the grind be? Khao khua should be ground to a coarse, sandy powde, not fine like flour. You want visible texture. In Isaan cooking it is often ground quite roughly in a mortar and pestle, leaving some grains partially intact. A spice grinder gives more control, pulse rather than run continuously and stop while there is still texture.
How to use it: Sprinkle over Larb, Nam Tok, and other Thai meat salads. Stir into dipping sauces for body and nuttiness. Add to Isaan style soups for a subtle thickening effect. Use as a coating for grilled meats. Once you start using it you will find reasons to add it to everything.
Storage: Store in an airtight glass jar at room temperature for up to 4 weeks. The fragrance fades over time, freshly made khao khua has a warmth and nuttiness that pre-made versions simply cannot match. Make small batches regularly rather than one large batch that sits too long.
Make extra: This recipe makes enough for several uses. Double or triple the quantity while you have the pan out. It takes no extra effort and having a well-stocked jar means your Larb and Nam Tok are always minutes away.