Panang Curry Recipe (Gaeng Panang): The Thai Way, Made Right

Note From Susie

Sawasdee Kha, and Hello.

I was six years old. I stood beside my grandmother in the kitchen at the farm in Kamphaeng Phet and I watched her make Panang curry. I did not help. I was too small to help. I just stood there beside her and listened.

My mother called it the bong bong. The mortar. The rhythmic sound of the paste being worked — bong bong, bong bong — steady and unhurried, the way my grandmother did everything. The smell that came up from it was like nothing else. Lemongrass and galangal and dried chilies releasing all at once into the air of that small kitchen.

I did not know that I was saying goodbye. I was six. You do not know those things at six. You just stand beside someone you love and listen to the sound they make and think that it will always be there.

It was not always there.

I have been making Panang curry for forty years in Florida trying to get back to that kitchen. This recipe is as close as I have come.

What Is Panang Curry?

Panang curry — แกงพะแนง, Gaeng Panang, pronounced “gaaeng pah-naeng” — is a central Thai curry built on a thick paste of dried red chilies, lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime peel, and roasted cumin and coriander. Unlike the thinner broths of red or green curry, a panang curry recipe produces something closer to a sauce — rich, cling-to-the-meat thick, with whole kaffir lime leaves pressed into the surface and a finish of coconut cream that never fully disappears into the dish. According to food historian David Thompson in his essential work Thai Food, Panang takes its name from the island of Penang in Malaysia, suggesting a southern or cross-border origin, though it has been claimed and refined by central Thai cooking for generations. It is not street food. It is home food. Restaurant food. The kind made with time.

The paste hits the coconut cream and the kitchen changes. That is how you know.

What You’ll Need

Start with the paste. You have two options and both are valid. The first is to make it from scratch — the mortar, the dried chilies, the lemongrass, the galangal, the kaffir lime peel, the roasted cumin and coriander. That method is its own page. If you are building this from scratch, go to the Panang Curry Paste page first, then come back here.

The second option is a good quality store-bought Panang paste. Mae Ploy and Maesri are both reliable. Two to three tablespoons for a batch serving four. The finished curry will be slightly flatter in complexity than scratch paste but it will still be worth making.

Coconut milk and coconut cream — full fat, both. Do not shake the cans. Open them carefully and spoon the cream from the top. You will use the thinner milk to fry the paste and the cream to finish the dish. Reduced-fat versions produce a different, lesser thing. This is not the place to substitute.

Protein: chicken thighs, boneless. The fat in the thigh holds through the simmer without drying. Thinly sliced beef sirloin works too. Whatever you choose, cut it to roughly the same size so it cooks evenly.

Kaffir lime leaves — whole, fresh or frozen. Not dried. The perfume of dried leaves is gone. Most Asian grocery stores carry them fresh or frozen. Buy extra and freeze what you do not use. They keep for months.

Fish sauce to season. Palm sugar or light brown sugar to balance — a small amount, less than you think you need. Taste after the simmer and adjust. Always taste it against rice, not on its own. The balance shifts when it sits beside starch.

Visual Walk Through

Let’s Get This Right

Why does my panang curry recipe taste thin instead of thick and rich?

The paste was not fried long enough. Frying the paste in coconut milk until the oil separates and rises to the surface is what gives Panang its body and depth. If you add the protein and coconut cream before the paste is properly fried, the curry stays loose and the flavors stay raw. Five to eight minutes of constant stirring. Watch for the oil rising. That is the signal.

Can I use store-bought curry paste for this panang curry recipe?

Yes, and it will produce a decent result. The flavors will be flatter and the texture thinner than a paste made from scratch, but a good quality store-bought Panang paste — Mae Ploy and Maesri are both reliable — is a workable shortcut. Fry it the same way you would a homemade paste. Do not skip that step.

Why is my panang curry bitter?

The dried chilies were not soaked long enough, or they were not drained properly before pounding. Under-soaked chilies bring bitterness into the paste that does not cook out. Soak them until fully soft — at least twenty minutes in warm water — and squeeze out the excess liquid before they go into the mortar.

What is the difference between panang curry and red curry?

Panang is thicker, richer, and quieter in heat than red curry. The paste contains roasted cumin and coriander and kaffir lime peel, which red curry paste does not, and less chili by volume. It uses more coconut cream and less liquid overall. The result is a sauce that clings to the meat rather than a broth that surrounds it. They are related but they are not the same dish.

Can I make panang curry ahead of time?

Yes. It is better the next day. The paste continues to integrate with the coconut cream overnight and the flavors deepen considerably. Make it the night before if you can. Reheat gently over medium-low — do not boil — and add a splash of coconut cream if it has thickened too much. Press fresh kaffir lime leaves in just before serving.

Flavor Profile

The mortar goes quiet and the smell arrives first. Lemongrass and galangal and roasted cumin — earthy and sharp and slightly sweet all at once, the way a kitchen smells when someone who knows what they are doing is in it. Then the paste hits the coconut milk and the whole register shifts. The raw edge cooks out and something deeper comes through — warm, dark, faintly spiced, the kind of smell that stays in a room. The finished curry is thick and deep red-orange, not the bright red of a fresh chili dish. It clings to a spoon. The coconut cream on top sits separately, pale and still. Kaffir lime leaves on the surface, glossy and dark green. The first taste is rich and slow — the chili heat arrives late, building behind the coconut and the lime, and then the cumin comes through at the end, earthy and low. Nothing sharp. Nothing loud. This is not that kind of curry. It is the kind that asks you to slow down.

Susie’s Kitchen Notes

The mortar matters more than the recipe. A granite mortar heavy enough to stay still on the counter — not ceramic, not marble, not the decorative one from the gift shop. The weight is the tool. My mother’s mortar in Korat was black granite and she never washed it with soap. Cold water only, then dried in the sun. The accumulated oils from years of paste made it better, not worse. I have been looking for one like it in Florida for twenty years.

Kaffir lime leaves are the non-negotiable ingredient. Dried kaffir lime leaves are not a substitute. Frozen are acceptable. Fresh are what you want. If your Asian grocery carries them — and most do — buy more than you need and freeze the rest in a sealed bag. They keep for months and thaw in seconds. There is no workaround for their specific perfume. The dish without them is a different dish.

The balance between fish sauce and palm sugar is where the dish lives. Not enough fish sauce and it tastes flat. Too much and it tips salty. Not enough sugar and the heat and acid have nothing to land against. Too much and it reads sweet. Start with less of each than you think you need, taste after the simmer, and adjust at the end. Taste it against rice, not on its own — the balance shifts when it sits beside starch.

Do not use light coconut milk here. The full-fat version is not optional. The whole texture of the dish depends on the cream content. I have tried the reduced-fat versions. They produce a different, lesser thing. This is one of the dishes where the ingredient is the dish.

Pairing Suggestions

Panang curry belongs beside jasmine rice — the sauce is thick enough to need something that absorbs rather than floats. Sticky rice works too, pressed into the sauce at the edge of the bowl the way it is eaten in the north. For a full Thai table, a clear soup alongside balances the richness — Tom Kha Gai is the natural partner, lighter and aromatic where Panang is dense and slow. Green Papaya Salad (Som Tum) brings the acid and the crunch that coconut cream needs beside it — sour and sharp against something slow and rich. Thai Spring Rolls (Por Pia Tod) at the start of the meal give the table something crisp and light before the curry arrives — contrast in texture before contrast in flavor. My grandmother never put one thing on the table. Neither should you.